What the back of your patch looks like

Plain fabric, with the merrowed or die-cut edge running right around it. Nothing added, nothing shiny.

Best for

Uniforms, workwear, scout sashes, letterman jackets — anything that will be washed for years.

The trade-off

Somebody has to sew it. That is a few minutes by hand or a minute on a machine, per patch.

A thin, slightly glossy film across the whole back. You can see the weave through it.

Best for

Hats, bags, denim and cotton jackets applied at home, with no sewing kit involved.

The trade-off

It needs a fabric that takes real heat, so nylon, vinyl and most waterproof shells are out. A heavily washed patch will eventually want a few stitches at the corners.

A dark, rigid pad of tiny hooks covering the back. Rough to the touch, and it will catch on a knit sleeve.

Best for

Plate carriers, flight suits, range bags and ball caps that already carry a loop panel.

The trade-off

Useless on its own — the garment has to supply the soft loop side. If it does not, take the full hook-and-loop below.

The same hook pad on the patch, plus a separate soft loop square shipped loose with it.

Best for

Swapping one patch for another on a garment that has no velcro on it yet.

The trade-off

The loop half still has to be sewn or stuck to the garment once. It is also the most expensive backing we make.

A paper liner over a pressure-sensitive glue. You peel the liner off and press it down.

Best for

Conference badges, one-day events, sample boards, giveaways — anything that only has to hold for an afternoon.

The trade-off

It is not a laundry backing and does not pretend to be. Expect it to lift, and expect it to lift sooner on a textured fabric.

A plain sew-on back with a short fabric loop stitched to the top edge.

Best for

Scout uniforms and anything that hangs from an existing button rather than sitting flat.

The trade-off

Only worth it where a button is already part of the garment.

A thin, rigid white sheet laminated to the back so the patch cannot curl.

Best for

Large printed patches that would otherwise ripple, and anything that has to sit flat on a firm surface.

The trade-off

Stiff by design, so it fights a curved surface like a cap panel or a sleeve.

Flat magnet discs set into the back, with a second set that sits inside the garment.

Best for

Name badges and anything on a shirt or jacket you refuse to put a hole in.

The trade-off

Size-limited, quoted individually, and it will not survive a tumble dryer. Keep it away from cards and pacemakers.

A metal bar pin riveted across the back, with a clasp at one end.

Best for

Lapels, vests, hats and trade-show badges that move between garments daily.

The trade-off

It puts two holes in whatever it is pinned to, and it is quoted individually rather than priced self-serve.